Japanese Pattern Books

Since it seems like most of the patterns I make these days are from Japanese pattern books, I thought I'd do a little post about some basics for using these great resources! Many of you have heard me proclaim in class how stylish and well-designed these patterns tend to be, and with a little patternmaking skill you - yes, you! - can partake in the wonderfulness. I'd recommend starting with a very simple pattern, possibly similar to a pattern you have already sewn - the trick here is that all the sewing instructions are in Japanese. The pictures are fantastic for the most part, though, so any seamster intermediate and up can generally figure out what's going on. A reference book like the "Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing" is also a great thing to have when you start winging it a bit! Overall, the fit is certainly curvier than one would expect, with bust darts and curved side seams - and it is also pretty roomy. For my own body shape - slim shoulders but a larger bust - the fit at the shoulder and sleeve parts of the pattern is unsurpassed.

Fall Wardrobe Planning!

As a sewing teacher, there is a lot of pressure on me to 'represent' - to wear clothes that I have made myself. It's a bit embarrassing to have someone say 'Oh, that's so cute, did you make it?' and I have to say 'No - I got it at Anthropologie'. Not that there's anything wrong with shopping! But since I have been sewing and fitting for so long, I tend to get frustrated with how expensive and badly made commercial clothing is (no matter how high end) - and I REALLY don't want to support the sweat-shop economy.

Sometimes it's super difficult to fit sewing into my schedule (which is a little counter to why I opened up a fabric store) so I decided to not only sew some key garments for this fall season, but to take you all through the process of how I decide on patterns, fabric, and construction changes. It's going to be a fun ride!

Normally, I am either inspired by fabric or by a pattern to sew - this time I actually sat down and made a list of things I need! I listed the details (as much as I could think of them) and any ideas for fabrics that might make it all cohesive. 

1. I need a lightweight coat. Hip length, 3/4 length sleeves, pockets, a hood or a collar, possibly a suit collar or a v-neck of some sort. Linen/cotton or cotton canvas. Unlined. I won't lie - I really want to make this out of one of the Jinzenji fabrics! Here are the patterns I'm looking at:

Ottobre Spring / Summer 2008

Indygo Junction Retro Raglan #IJ764

Daily Sewing Book (Japanese) - Coverall

Natural Sewing Book (Japanese) - coat

2. I need a few knit toppers that I can throw on over tees or shorter sleeves. It's still warm during the day, but by the time I'm done teaching in the evening it's chilly!

Kwik Sew, View A - Simpliciy, View A as well!

3. I need a fancy dress to attend a friend's wedding next month. I love Colette's retro Macaron pattern, and am considering using chocolate brown Radiance for the top and band, with either Nani Iro's Colorful Pocho - Evergreen or her Fuccra Rakuen - Peach. I'd like to be dressy, but of course comfortable and rather subtle. These are such pretty fall colors!

Macaron by Colette

Radiance / Espresso and Colorful Pocho / Evergreen

Radiance / Espresso and Fuccra Rakuen / Peach

4. I need PANTS. Smooth fitting, medium leg, pockets, full length. Linen or lightweight wool. I adore the top of these pants but would definitely slim the leg down a bit. More straight, less flare.

Ottobre Spring / Summer 2008

5. Some more long sleeve blouses would be lovely. Christine says my look is definitely 'urban peasant' and these patterns certainly fit the mold! We have some incredible lawns in stock and I especially want to use this fabric for one of them:

Stylish Dress Book (Japanese)

Stylish Dress Book (Japanese)

New Look #6851

6. I'm in love with this idea - and we have a super-cute border print double gauze by Kayo Horaguchi in stock! 

Merry -Go-Round

7. There is always time for CUTE DRESSES!

Burda #7739

Heart Warming Life (Japanese)

Heart Warming Life (Japanese)

Heart Warming Life (Japanese)

So that is a good overview of what is coming up. I'm going to be working on the blouses, the coat and the dress for the wedding first, so join us in a few days to see what I come up with!

Japanese fabric Update - Echino Fall 2011 and Yoshiko Jinzenji

TWO, count them, TWO amazing things happened today! The first amazing thing is that fabric designer Etsuko Furuya has released images of her Fall 2011 Echino prints! Many of you know that Echino has seasonal collections - spring being more technology and transportation based and fall being more based in nature. I have to admit - as much as I love it all - the fall collection is the one I wait for every year. This is a Sneak Peek only... we ordered it all but it's not showing up in the shop till November-ish. So you'll have to hold your horses, er, okapis.

 

Her gorgeous border prints featuring flowers, trees and birds:

 Stripes and birds and flowers and polka dots!

 

 Patchwork woodland creatures!

Okay, that's an okapi. And it's nibbling. OMG so cute!

The SECOND amazing thing is that our Yoshiko Jinzenji fabric is ready to ship!!!!! I have been waiting for this fabric since MAY so I'm super mega excited. You can see all of the pictures here but here's a few just so you know what I'm talking about:

See? It's awesomeness printed directly on fabric. It should be in the shop within a week! I'm dancing around like a maniac!

Now We Are Four

So, Sew L.A. turns four this month. Four! And it all started out with me saying "Well, maybe I can have some sewing classes in my corsetry studio... that sounds like fun..."

Way back in 2007, I would not have believed how far we have come. A bigger classroom, a fabric shop and website, people learning and creating every day - it's really amazing! We have (somewhat) (hopefully) weathered a recession and many, many day to day ups and downs, including power / water outages and flooding! The changes never end, and that makes me happy cause then it would be boring, and who wants that?

Creativity in action

Fabric...

and more fabric!

One of the biggest new changes is that we have just hired Christine Haynes as a full time store person, and we couldn't be happier! Christine has been teaching classes with us for the past year, and then decided she wanted to hang out with us even more. This means that I myself will have more time to devote to the planning that goes on behind the scenes here - writing more blog posts, writing more classes, working on (gasp) a budget even! Gosh, I feel so grown up. Also joining us in the store in the lovely Haley, a recent fashion design student from Woodbury University. She's awesome!

And we bid a fond farewell to both Linnea and Vanessa - both are off to other adventures but will be sure to stop in and visit from time to time. Now I have two new people to force into modeling for the website pictures... mwah ha ha ha!

I'm looking forward to two trade shows coming up - the International Textiles Expo in Las Vegas at the end of the month, and of course the fall Quilt Market in Houston at the end of October. I also have a TON of projects just sitting here waiting for me to start sewing and sharing! So stay tuned, intrepid seamsters...